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This engine buildup consists of a 2.4 liter bottom end and one of 2 different combinations of heads. The first would be a complete RSX-S head with intake manifold and throttle body or a TSX head with an RSX-S intake manifold and throttle body. There are 4 different chassis from which you can locate a bottom end as Honda releases more K24 engines this list may be updated.
Honda CRV comes in with 9.6:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 6000rpm and 162lbs-ft at 3600 rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lobe. This motor has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm with the other 4 slightly opening. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
The Acura TSX comes in with 10.5:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 200hp at 6800rpm and 166lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor uses the conventional VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC. This motor uses a drive by wire throttle and has EGR castings on the manifold. This motor comes with a 6 speed transmission and no LSD.
The Honda Element and Accord come in with 9.7:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 5500rpm and 161lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lobe. This motor has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm with the other 4 slightly opening. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD. If using a K24a4 block the pistons will need to be swapped with aftermarket or a1, a2 pistons to avoid valve to piston contact.
This engine is found in the (06-07) Honda Accord and (07-08) Honda Element. Is has the same 9.7:1 compression as the K24A4 and is rated at similar power. 166 hp @ 5800 rpm and 161lb trq @ 4000 rpm. Equipped with an electronic throttle body, this motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism but does have VTC. It only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lobe. This motor also comes with an available 5 speed transmission and 5 speed auto. This engine shares the same downfalls with the K24A4 engines as the pistons will contact the K20 cylinder head.
This engine is found in the (07-09) Honda CR-V. It has the common 9.7:1 compression and is rated at 166 hp @ 5800 rpm and 161 lb·ft @ 4200 rpm with a red kline of 6500 rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism found in the K20A but it does have VTC. This motor was only available with either a 5 speed automatic FWD gearbox or a 5 speed automatic AWD gearbox. This engine is different than the older “A” series engines in the sense that the oil filter has been relocated to the lower center portion of the block. This will interfere with a manual transmission using a traditional intermediate shaft. You must use a block off plate, an oil filter relocation kit (use all parts from the K24A series engine to place the oil filter to the upper position) you will also need to plug an oil port on the girdle as well as change to a K20A2 oil pump. It’s also worth mentioning that the timing chain cover is also slightly different than the “A” series engines and may not bolt up properly.
K24Z series oil block off plate
This is a picture of the oil port that must be capped off. It should be threaded, however, some reports say it is not. I cannot confirm.
First, make sure you have all the necessary parts to perform this engine build. There are many parts that are interchangeable from the K20 motor to the K24A series engine, however, there are differences.
USE THIS GUIDE FOR THE K24A SERIES ENGINES ONLY. THE Z SERIES ENGINES ARE NOT SUPPORTED.
A few parts are ARE interchangeable:
Crank pulley (Some K24 blocks use a pulley of a different diameter, you should measure to be sure you are using the correct one.)
Water pump (The K20A2 water pump contains an oil cooler, this will NOT fit on the K24 water pump housing. You must change the entire housing, not just the pump.)
Oil Pan (Some are made from steel, some are made from aluminum. Depending on what pan you use, you may need to fabricate a transmission dust shield.)
Head Bolts/Studs (we recommend using new ones)
Parts that ARE NOT interchangeable:
Timing chain (The K20 chain are too short)
Timing chain cover (The K20 cases are too short)
Dipstick (It’s too short)
K20 Head Gasket (You must use the K24 head gasket due to the increased bore)
You will also need a service manual for one of the K24 motors or K20A2 for all the torque specs.
Start off by draining all fluids, removing the clutch and flywheel and bolt it to an engine stand. You can then start the disassembly , start by removing the accessories (i.e. AC compressor, Alternator) if you haven’t already. Refer to the illustration for the exploded view of the valve and timing chain covers; Remove these next.
After removal of the valve and timing chain covers (K20A2 pictured):
Note: If using the K20 oil pan, you will need the longer oil pan 10mm bolts
Note: For built – high revving engines, we recommend the use of an F20C oil pump. The F20C pump is not a bolt on part, modifications will be required. The K20A2 oil pump WILL cavitate past 8500rpm and the K20Z3 oil pump uses balance shafts that can reduce power output. Alternatively, we have seen ported PRB oil pumps maintain positive pressure up to 8800rpm.
Note: If you plan to autocross, circuit, or drag race we recommend installing an oil pan baffle.
The K24 uses a pair of balance shafts in the oil pump and an abbreviated windage tray, that just adds extra weight to the setup so we will be using the K20A2 parts for this. If you chose to use the cast aluminum pan from the K20A2, remove the steel pan and pump now.
Once you have the block disassembled, a machine shop will be needed in order to drill a hole for the oil cooler. This is not necessary for operation, however, to keep engine oil temperatures down during sustained high revs, it is recommended. To run this setup you will also need a k20 water pump housing as it is different than the k24. The K20 water pump housing incorporates a coolant port for the oil cooler; The K24A1 / A4 engines do not have this.
Note: When removing parts with Hondabond, clean the gasket off both parts to create a clean and flat surface and to ensure a leak-free seal.
Note: Alternatively, you can run an external oil cooler instead of having the block drilled and tapped. In most cases, adding an external cooler with a sandwich plate is much easier and will offer better cooling for engines that will see high revs and high external ambient temperatures.
Once you have your bottom end prepped, you can begin to put the cylinder head on. Remember that you will need a K24 head gasket due to the 87mm bore size. We opted to use a Cometic K24 head gasket for our project. Instead of using the stock cylinder head bolts, we are installing Golden Eagle head studs for this engine. You may use the stock head bolts but before doing so you will need to measure them and make sure they are not out of spec. Measure the bolt in 4 different places along the threads and if any diameter is less than 10.6mm (0.42 in) replace the cylinder head bolt.
If using aftermarket head studs please follow their instructions carefully as they will most likely be different than the OEM. After the cylinder head is torqued, installation of the rocker arm assembly, cams, and caps are next. Use some type of engine assembly lube when installing the cams so there will be no damage to these parts upon initial startup.
Be sure to install the cam gear and VTC gear before installing the cam into the head.
Intake VTC actuator gear bolt- 83 lbf.ft
Exhaust Cam gear bolt – 51 lbf.ft
If using OEM head bolts, dip the threads in engine oil, then tighten them in sequence to 28ft.lb. Use a beam-type torque wrench. If using a preset type torque wrench, tighten slowly be sure not to over tighten. If any bolt makes a noise while turning, loosen fully and start from the first step.
After torquing down all of the head bolts, turn them in sequence, in two steps, 90*. (90* per step) If you are using new cylinder head bolts, turn one final additional step.
After the head is attached to the block you will need to move the cams and crank to top dead center.
1. Set the crankshaft to top dead center TDC. Align the TDC mark A on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer B on the cylinder block.
2. Set the cams to TDC. The punch mark (A) marked with an arrow on the VTC actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust cam sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and exhaust cam sprocket.
Once the engine is set at TDC, it’s time to install the cam chain. Install the cam chain on the crank sprocket with the colored piece (A) aligned with the punch mark on the crank sprocket.
Next, install the timing chain on the VTC actuator and exhaust cam sprocket with the punch marks (A) aligned with the two colored pieces (B).
Now you can install the cam chain guide A (A) and the tensioner arm (B).
Once the guides are on install the auto-tensioner.
Install the cam chain guide B.
Then remove the pin from the auto tensioner.
Make sure to reinstall the camshaft position sensor sprocket.
Face the sprocket accordingly, with the side labeled OUTSIDE… facing outside.
Now check the chain case oil seal for damage, replace if necessary. Remove old liquid gasket from the chain case mating surface, bolts and bolt holes. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces.
Apply Hondabond evenly to the cylinder block mating surface of the chain case and to the inner threads of the holes.
Apply Hondabond to the cylinder block upper surface areas (A) on the chain case.
The crank pulley can now be put on and torque to the proper specifications.
Make sure to align the key and crank pulley when reinstalling.
Torque crank pulley bolt to 181lbf.ft. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH
Once the engine is back together, you can now begin to reinstall all of the other components (i.e. Intake manifold, water pump, alternator, engine wiring harness).
Note: When installing the engine wiring harness, the Crank Position Sensor (CKPS) will not work with the K24. Be sure to get the K24 sensor and sensor plug. Make sure to wire the sensor the same way.
Be sure to check all fluid levels before running the engine. If the engine is brand new, follow all proper engine break-in procedures.
Koliko puta ste trebali neki dio ali niste mogli da nađete tačan kataloški broj. Na slijedeća dva linka imate mogućnost da nađete svaki dio na vašoj hondi i kataloški broj istog, a potom da provjerite cijenu.
In response to recent questions about different transmissions I think its important to shed some light into the ones available for our b-series motors. There are many differences between B-series transmissions and I’ve never found an article describing the positives and negatives of each unit. Below, you’ll see transmission codes, the car it’s found in, and whether or not it has factory LSD. It’s important to realize that Honda didn’t make it easy for us to distinguish between transmissions. For example, almost all transmissions found in Integra’s are stamped S80. This includes the tall LS transmission and the ultra short JDM Type-R transmission. In some cases, the only way to determine which transmission you really have is to take it apart and count the number of teeth on the ring gear. Obviously, in most cases it’s not practical to take your transmission apart to determine which one you have. To be safe when acquiring a transmission, you should identify the seller; try to identify the car and or motor it came with.
As most of you know the B16A was featured in Japan between the years of 1989 through 2001. This engine has had several different transmissions mated to it causing some potential confusion.
First, it’s important to realize that first generation B16A’s came with cable transmissions. The Y1 came with optional factory LSD and should have LSD stamped on the transmission. Determining whether or not a transmission has LSD is very simple, just look into the differential and see if its opened or closed. For those not familiar with this, you’ll either see a set of gears that form a closed cylinder, or you’ll see an open differential with a bar splitting the middle.
Typically these transmissions have had weak synchro’s in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears with 3rd gears crunching the most. Its also worth noting that all of the transmissions minus the Y1 have very weak open differentials making it essential that you upgrade if your putting a lot of power to the ground.
As far as gearing, these transmissions are all pretty short. Here is a listing of the gear ratios and final drive, courtesy of www.bseries.net.
In conclusion, this transmission is good for all motor and should bring between 500-700 if its hydraulic while cable transmissions are worth between 400-600. Please be careful that the transmission you’re buying doesn’t have bad synchro’s because a lot of them have been beaten on and this is the first problem you’ll have. Plus, if you’re making a lot of power, 170 to the wheels, be prepared to replace your differential because these can be broken with regularity.
The transmission found in the Civic Type R is highly sought after and very rare. Its gear ratio’s are identical to that of the B16A’s but has a stronger limited slip and dual synchro’s in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. Expect to pay between 1000-1200 for a genuine CTR transmission because they’re rare and well worth the price. Its also worth mentioning that these transmissions are Hydraulic type.
This transmission is found on the rare “blacksheep” of b-series motors. The most important feature here is that its cable-type. This means you can bolt this into any 93 and older integra and 91 and older civic without having to change to hydraulic. The synchro’s on this transmission are still considered weak, however the gearing is very good for all motor applications as its identical to the B16A transmissions. Finally, this transmission did not have factory LSD, so keep that in mind when someone is trying to tell you otherwise. Look to pay between 400-600 dollars for this transmission, although its going to be difficult to find and usually when you do, there is something wrong with it.
Again, you’ll see how Honda didn’t help us out any with the stamping on this transmission. These transmissions however, are much different in there gearing. This transmission has a longer first and second gear with slightly longer 3rd and 4th gears. The final drive is still 4.40:1 making this a possibility for all motor applications, but not your best choice. You’ll be able to find this transmission in 90-93 Integra’s and they’re all cable-type. The prices for these should range between 200-400 for clean, good working units. Paying anymore is pointless, as these transmissions are everywhere.
This is probably the easiest b-series transmission to find because it’s found in every non-VTEC 94-01 Integra. Most notably, this transmission is the longest of all b-series transmissions and has the weakest synchro’s and weakest differential. The final drive is 4.266:1 and each of the gears is longer compared to its B16A counterparts. For boost, a lot of people like the gearing of this transmission, plus gas mileage is great and they’re very cheap. Look to pay no more than 500 for a clean LS tranny because they’re everywhere.
The transmission found in JDM GSR’s is very popular and overall an excellent transmission. For all motor and boost applicatiosn this transmission has excellent gearing and a stronger differential compared to its B16A and B18B counterparts. The transmissions with LSD should have “LSD” stamped on the casing and to make sure, inspect the differential and use the parameters I described before to identify whether or not the transmission really has LSD. Look to pay between 700-1200 for this transmission depending on whether its LSD equipped. Also worth mentioning, these transmissions are all hydraulic.
This transmission is found in all USDM GSR’s. Although LSD was not offered these transmissions are still highly sought after because of their stronger differentials and optimal gearing. For those not interested in ultra-short gearing this transmission provides the perfect balance between acceleration and top end. Look to pay around 700-1000 for these transmissions.
This transmission is one of the best B-series transmissions Honda has offered in its vehicles. Every gear has dual synchro’s and the gearing is perfect for all motor applications. Plus, LSD is standard and will be stamped on the housing. Look to spend between 1200-1400 for these transmissions because of their quality, LSD, age and gear ratio’s. Finally, if there is some question about whether or not you’re S80 has 4.4 final drive or 4.7 final drive you can check the transmission housing. The code “4jhd” means 4.4 final drive was offered as original equipment, while “ne3” signifies 4.78 final drive.
JDM Type R transmissions are the best for all motor applications where acceleration is emphasized most. All 98 and up JDM Type R transmissions came with 4.785 final drive with the same 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears as the USDM Type R. To make highway driving more tolerable, the 4th and 5th gears are the same as GSR transmissions. Look to spend between 1400-1600 for these transmissions because of their final drive and rarity.